A memorable land border crossing

The highlight of this segment was certainly our journey across the land border from Thailand to Cambodia. Thanks to our restful stay on the island of Koh Kood which made our long commute day across the border more bearable.

2023.02.20 – Koh Kood – Koh Kood (Thailand)

We had a taste of our accommodation’s pampering when they served us a Thai breakfast on our bungalow balcony. Later morning, we walked over to a mini mart to buy some beer. Jenny discovered and purchased a nice breezy hoodie there. In the mid afternoon, we went snorkeling in the bay in front of the nearby resort. We saw plenty of colorful fishes but very limited coral structures. In the evening, our accommodation arranged for a transport to a popular seafood restaurant some 9 kms away over a steep road side. Jenny finally enjoyed some lobsters for dinner.

2023.02.21 – Koh Kood – Koh Kood (Thailand)

We enjoyed a large western breakfast this morning on our balcony. We continued to relax and enjoy the scenery throughout the morning. Around 11am we went on a paddling outing using our accommodation’s two seat kayak. We visited the nearby bay to the east of our accommodation. After that we went snorkeling in the same area as yesterday. Sadly, we were not well equipped to capture nice photos of the underwater scenery. In the evening, we returned to the nearby resort for our dinner. We were really enjoying the slow pace environment of the island.

2023.02.22 – Koh Kood – Koh Kood (Thailand)

Jenny chose a Thai breakfast while I stuck with a western one. After relaxing the entire morning on our balcony, we went on a paddling outing, for more than one hour, using our accommodation’s two seat kayak. We visited the nearby bay to the west of our accommodation. After returning from our kayaking, we went snorkeling in the bay in front of the nearby resort – the same area as previous 2 days. We enjoyed admiring the colorful fishes one last time on Koh Kood. In the evening, we returned to our neighboring resort for a BBQ seafood feast dinner. Although we had not yet left our bungalow, we already felt that we would be missing it tomorrow.

2023.02.23 – Koh Kood – Battambang (Cambodia)

After an early and final breakfast on our bungalow’s pleasant balcony, we embarked on what we expected to be the most challenging commute of this trip. We had booked no hotel for the night as we were unsure on how far we would reach along our journey. We ultimately wanted to reach Battambang – one of our first stay in Cambodia. We had success in our commute after leaving our bungalow at 9am and checking into a hotel in Battambang at 6:30pm. Our day’s transport details are summarized below.
Transport ModeSegmentDurationCost
sõrngtãaou Koh Kood bungalow to Ferry Pier40 mins(included in ferry cost)
ferryKoh Kood pier to Laem Sok pier1.5 hrs$27.57
sõrngtãaou Laem Sok pier to Trat bus station30 mins$5.51
BusTrat bus station to Chanthaburi bus station1.25 hrs$6.30
private sõrngtãaouChanthaburi bus stations to Cambodia border1 hr$35.44
tuk tukCambodia border to Pailin shared taxi stand30 mins$15.75
semi private taxi Pailin shared taxi stand to Battambang hotel2 hrs$33.51
Our journey across the Cambodian border was fairly expensive at $124CDN for the transport and $75USD for our 15 day visas. One of the reasons, we chose to cross the border where we did was that our travel guide highlighted the fact that it was less hectic than other border crossing area. The travel guide was correct. We were the only ones applying for an on-arrival Cambodian visa hence the immigration formalities were fairly stress free. Our first impressions of Cambodia was that the transport modes were more limited than in Thailand (we would not be finding any Grab ride in this country). The other element we came to quickly realize was that the USD dollar was the preferred currency as opposed to the local Cambodian riel currency. To our surprise and relief, we reached Battambang just before darkness. Our long commute day was rewarded when we checked into a nice hotel in the center of Batttambang. We had dinner at the rooftop bar while reviewing our day’s commuting experience.

2023.02.24 – Battambang – Battambang (Cambodia)

We enjoyed a relaxing breakfast at our hotel before tackling a few errands. Given the widespread use of the USD dollar in Cambodia, we opted to get more green bills by exchanging some of our CDN dollars. We also needed to buy a new SIM as our Singapore’s SIM roaming fees in Cambodia would be too expensive. We purchased a single SIM of 5Gb for $2 USD. Later, we stopped at an informal office that sold tickets for a boat transport from Battambang to Siem Reap (our next stay in Cambodia). Although, the boat trip was said to go through some picturesque scenery, we rejected the idea after learning the ride would take over 7hr and that the passenger seating appeared very uncomfortable. Back at our hotel room, we did some travel itinerary planning including purchasing airline tickets and applying for our e-visa for Vietnam. In the late afternoon, we had planned to visit one of the tourist attraction involving a bat exodus from a cave. Unfortunately, when we inquired at our hotel’s front desk about securing a tuk-tuk transport for the 12kms to the cave site, they suggested that we were too late to leave and really enjoy the site and bat exodus experience. Instead, we looked into purchasing our bus tickets to Siem Reap. We were confused by the fact that Google maps and travel guide suggested that a bus office was just around the corner from our hotel but we could not find any such business. We learned from the restaurant owner where we had our dinner, that many bus companies that operated in Battambang closed during Covid and never re-opened back. After dinner, we purchased our mini-van transport tickets to Siem Reap based on the restaurant owner’s recommendation of a nearby transport company that was still operating. We finished the evening with some cocktails on our hotel’s rooftop bar. We had a long conversation with a British expat living in Thailand but was visiting the area with his Cambodian girlfriend.

2023.02.25 – Battambang – Battambang (Cambodia)

Our hotel breakfast was served à la carte this morning as we learned they did not have enough rooms occupied to justify setting up a breakfast buffet. We also learned from another guest that we could install a Grab-like app to book rickshaw transport all across Cambodia. Hence late morning, we booked our first rickshaw ride to experience a 20 mins trill on the famous Battambang bamboo train. Our rickshaw driver was happy to wait for us as he could benefit from a return fare to the town center. Back at our hotel, we rested until mid-afternoon. Later we visited a nice cafe for some cappuccinos and cake. In the early evening, we took another rickshaw to attend a circus performed by kids enrolled in a special performing arts school that included developing skills in the likes of the Cirque du Soleil. The 1 hour show was entertaining and provided a glimpse into the promising youth acrobatic skills. Our rickshaw driver once again waited for us for his return fair. A young German traveling girl joined us on the ride back the town center. We had a late dinner at the rooftop bar where we met again our British expat and his Cambodian girlfriend.

2023.02.26 – Battambang – Battambang (Cambodia)

We met our British expat and his girlfriend at our hotel breakfast buffet. They shared their previous day’s experience of their visit to the famous bat cave. After breakfast, we found a barber shop/hair salon nearby. At a cost of $2.50USD, I had one of the most detailed hair cut and styling I had ever had. On our way back to the hotel, we purchased some water and snacks. Later, I took advantage of our rooftop pool for an hour or so. At 3:00pm, we ordered a rickshaw/tuk-tuk to visit the bat cave some 12 kms out of town. We started our visit with a moto-taxis that took us up the hill to visit the notorious Killing cave and the views of some temples with a fairly large monkey population. Back down the hill, we got our rickshaw driver to bring us on the other side of the hill to a location our British expat had recommended as the best spot to see the sunset and the bat exodus from the cave. Unfortunately, we had not planned the timing of our visit very well as we had to wait over 1.5 hr for the sunset and the start of the bat exodus. Jenny was not eager to wait at the remote hillside site for the sunset and preferred to ride back to the main observation area in the comfort of plastic chairs rather than rocks. The tuk-tuk driver kindly drove her back to the other side of the hill while I stayed behind at the remote site. As the sunset got closer, many more tuk-tuk drivers brought their customers up to the remote hillside. Clearly this site was considered by local experts as the best viewing location for both the sunset and the bat exodus.  After failing to witness a bat exodus from a cave in Mulu (Malaysia), we could now check mark this experience.  After 15-20 mins of viewing the bat exodus (which continued for 30+ mins), our tuk-tuk driver picked up us from different locations and expertly drove us back to our hotel under the cover of darkness. We had dinner, once again, at our hotel rooftop bar.

14 Responses to “A memorable land border crossing”

  1. Gang Bao Avatar
    Gang Bao

    Wow, very nice view and landscaping in Thailand & Cambodia!

    I see Jenny enjoyed lobster Kih Kood. Did Jenny try to catch a live lobster when she was snorkeling? ^_^

    Gilles, it is great deal with $2.50US for the haircut, specially you are having Cambodian hair style. It is a very picture while you were in the haircut that your head was in a wood frame 😄😄😄

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Thanks Gang – Jenny did try find a lobster when she snorkeled but I guess she was not going deep enough. I wrote a nice Google review for the hair salon as they did such a nice job.

  2. Mario Avatar
    Mario

    C’est commique, quelqu’un me parlait de la caverne de chauve souris et de la “killing cave” avant hier, content que vous avez eu la chance de le voir.

    Bonne continuité…

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Salut Mario – Toi et MC avez eu vous aussi une belle (et difficile randonnée) pour visiter la caverne de Hang Tien. Si j’avais votre âge j’aurais été tenté par leur expédition de cinq jours pour découvrir la caverne de Son Doong (où la toilette chimique/naturelle vous suit pour la durée du séjour).

  3. Guang Avatar
    Guang

    What a journey crossing the border! You guys are qualified for the next Amazing Race Cambodia 🙂

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Hi Guang – If ever we were invited on the Amazing Race Cambodia we would need to master a lot of the Khmer language. Thankfully for us, many locals speak more English than we do Khmer.

  4. Lucie Avatar
    Lucie

    Toujours un plaisir de vous lire. Vous êtes définitivement des experts en organisation de voyages. Je vois qu’il y a encore plusieurs gens qui portent le masque. 😒😒. Beaucoup plus luxueux cette partie du voyage. 😀😀. J’aurais aimé être avec vous pour la rencontre des singes. Profitez en bien.

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Salut Lucie – Nous sommes bien content de voir que tu reconnais nos habiletés d’organisation de voyages. On vous offre, à ton couple et celui de ta soeur, nos services à notre retour. pti. Jenny est demeuré avec le conducteur de moto alors que j’ai visité les temples avec les nombreux singes. J’ai toujours peur que l’un de ces singes m’adopte comme son père.

  5. Shannon Avatar
    Shannon

    It looks like you guys had a great time on Koh Kood island, great food, beautiful scenery!
    So much adventures in border crossing to Cambodia, and seeing the bat exodus, so cool!

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Thanks Shannon for keeping up with us. Our time in Koh Kood was certainly a vacation from the trip adventure. Glad that we tried this island in Thailand. Who would think that flying bats would become such a tourist attraction!

  6. Louise Avatar
    Louise

    Hi,
    Very nice pictures. I think I would have enjoyed that part of your journey. It seemed relaxing. Have fun!

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Merci Louise – With your recent empty nest, you and Bob might want to join us on our next relaxing journey.

  7. Ron H Avatar
    Ron H

    Koh Kood island and the Jasmine Garden bungalows looks like the perfect place to relax. You guys looked like you were really enjoying that part of your trip. Lots of good seafood too … yum … yum. You never mentioned if you got any bamboo splinters from the thrill ride. How fast did it travel? You’re more adventureous than me. After reading the comment on your haircut, I revisited the photo and your friend is correct … it looks like you were framed. Nice haircut, price seems right… if it wasn’t for that thousands of dollars for the flight, I might have my hair done there as well.
    Again … great photos!

  8. gilles Avatar
    gilles

    Hi Ron – It seems like a unanimous view that everyone would have joined us on Koh Kood for a relaxing stay. As for the bamboo train, the folks covered the bamboo platform with a carpet and we had some cushions for our seating enjoyment. The train went at a casual speed (~15kms/hr) in one direction for ~10 minutes and then the driver moved the engine and belt from one side to the other. Then we backtracked for ~15 minutes (+ other engine swipe). On the return ride, the driver floored it and we probably were going 25+kms/hr. I love the quality of the cheap haircut in South East Asia. Hopefully, Jenny picked a few tips for the home base haircut.

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