Our introduction to the Loire River

2022.05.14 – Saint-Nazaire ==> Nantes (71 kms | Total: 1039 kms)

During the night, I dreamed of crossing the Saint-Nazaire bridge over a dozen times. Luckily the actual crossing was much better than expected as we managed to cycle the entire length of the bridge (3kms). Once on the other side, we did a small detour to the official starting point of the EuroVelo Route 6 for some photo opportunities. Our road to Nantes was flat, but we faced head winds throughout our cycling day. On the bright side, we were pleased that the forecast for rain had disappeared. We saw more touring cyclists today than the entire previous week in France. At 50kms, we took a free ferry to the other side of the Loire river. We were glad to arrive at our hotel after a fairly long cycling day. We continued to struggle to find affordable restaurant options. We reverted to buy food items at a local grocery store for our evening meal.

2022.05.15 – Nantes ==> Nantes (0 kms | Total: 1039 kms)

We both had very sound sleep. As previously planned, we took a day of rest in the large town of Nantes. We stepped out of our hotel at 9:30am to have breakfast at a nearby McDonald’s. It provided a very different offering than the one we were familiar with in Canada. Needless to say, it was a very disappointing breakfast experience. The streets were very quiet on Sunday morning. It was only around noon that folks started to show up for walking, cycling or running. On our way back to the hotel, after walking 10+kms, we stopped at a fast food crêperie restaurant for a light lunch. During our afternoon rest in our hotel room, we updated our travel itinerary once again. We managed to find a good value South East Asian restaurant for our evening meal.

2022.05.16 – Nantes ==> Ingrandes-le-Fresne-sur-Loire (66 kms | Total: 1105 kms)

After a quick breakfast in our room, we retrieved the tandem from the hotel’s parking lot and loaded our panniers once again. We cycled a few kms against the morning rush hour commuter traffic before returning to our peaceful cycling environment. We covered a lot of distance in the morning as the road was flat and we were not slowed down by the wind. We stopped in the town of Ancenis (40kms) for a rest and shared a two course daily lunch meal at a restaurant nearby a local castle. The cycling continued to be easy and enjoyable right up to Ingrandes. We bought some grocery supplies before checking into our hotel – a full hour ahead of schedule. We had a delightful three-course evening meal at the hotel’s restaurant.

2022.05.17 – Ingrandes-le-Fresne-sur-Loire ==> Loire-Authion (60 kms | Total: 1165 kms)

After eating our usual breakfast staples in our hotel room, we promptly left our hotel and cycled up to the nearby bridge under construction. We walked and cycled across the bridge which was closed to car traffic. We found the cycling slower than usual as we faced a constant headwind while the sun shined strongly. After 40kms, we stopped at a deli in the town of Les Ponts de Cé for a light lunch while cooling down in the air conditioned environment. We were quite tired when we finally reached our gîte accommodation for the night. The true highlight of our day was joining our B&B hosts, Catherine and her husband Lionel, for an evening meal. Catherine spared no effort to prepare a wonderful home-made three-course meal. We enjoyed the good conversation and exchanges throughout our meal. We felt a bit more immerse into the French family life. Catherine and Lionel were exceptional hosts at making us welcomed and at ease.

2022.05.18 – Loire-Authion ==> Beaumont-en-Véron (67 kms | Total: 1232 kms)

Our B&B host, Catherine, surprised us this morning by presenting us with fried eggs in addition to all her homemade breakfast staples: baguette bread, croissants, cake, jams, juice and coffee. We were honored to have such a delicious “petit déjeuner” (breakfast). After taking a few farewell photos, we started our cycling day on quiet country roads. Early on, we felt the cycling was much easier than yesterday as the kms seemed to fly by. At mid point of our day, we stopped in the town of Saumur to check of a few bicycle shops. I had noticed during my tandem maintenance in Saint-Nazaire that the sidewalls of our front tire had suffered some abuse during our cycling on various gravel roads/trails in the UK. Although we could have waited until we get to Germany, Jenny was quite nervous about cycling without a backup tire. Hence, we managed to find a correctly sized tire at a Decathlon sport store. We continued to come across dozen and dozen of cyclists along La Loire river cycling route. Some cyclists had fully loaded bicycles while others barely had any luggage. It seemed like more than 50% of them were riding e-bikes (they were the cyclists always smiling!). The remainder of our cycling was enjoyable. Unfortunately, when we arrived at our hotel at 2:00pm, we learned that the hotel reception door only opened at 5:00pm. In order to kill some time, we cycled to a grocery store for some refreshments as the temperature had reached once again 30+C. Later, we found refuge in a nearby cafe/bar while having a light lunch. After finally checking into our room, we appreciated a good shower to wash away the many tiny flying bugs (moucherons [f] /gnats [e]) we collected along our way. Although our hotel’s restaurant was closed, we managed to have our diner at a nearby restaurant.

2022.05.19 – Beaumont-en-Véron ==> Tours (56 kms | Total: 1288 kms)

After enjoying our hotel’s breakfast, we rejoined our cycling route after a few kms. Cycling was quite pleasant. We had some light rain shower along the way. We encountered even more cyclists on the road today. We cycled into Tours in early afternoon and checked-in to our hotel by 1:00pm. We went to the grocery store for some snacks and fruits. We learned that our hotel’s A/C was out of order until the month of June. We walked over to a busy restaurant/pub district for our evening meal covering another 8kms.

2022.05.20 – Tours ==> Tours (0 kms | Total: 1288 kms)

After a relaxing breakfast at the hotel, I finally replaced our front tire and did an extensive cleaning of the dirt grim on the tandem. Later morning, we walked over to the town’s botanical garden – while stopping along the way at a H&M clothes store. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at Portuguese restaurant to make reservation for our evening meal and indulged ourselves with some gelato. We took a rest in our hotel before heading out for our evening meal. We walked over 17kms throughout our day in Tours.

13 Responses to “Our introduction to the Loire River”

  1. Shannon Avatar
    Shannon

    Gilles and Jenny,

    Very glad to see you guys enjoying the places you visit. Nice pictures with great sceneries, rivers, flowers, castles, all so beautiful!

    Take care,
    Shannon

    1. Jenny Zhang Avatar
      Jenny Zhang

      Shannon,

      Thank you for taking time to follow our journey in words and pictures. Glad to share some of the sceneries we encountered.

  2. Louise Avatar
    Louise

    Hi Gilles and Jenny,
    An hotel with A/C out of order until June is unacceptable for Bob and I. 😄 You are very courageous! I feel so exhausted just reading your post. Enjoy your cycling journey and be safe. 😉

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Merci Louise – Apparently the temperature is clearly higher this year than at the same time last year. The hotel’s A/C repair was delayed due to supply chain issue linked to Covid. On good note, the hotel did provide us with a fan.

  3. Lucie Avatar
    Lucie

    De retour d’Atlantic City ce soir. Une belle petite vacance. En plus, on ramène de l’argent us 🇺🇸. Bien contente que votre périple ce passe bien. Belles photos. Soyez prudents.

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Merci Lucie – Nous sommmes content d’apprendre que vous avez des fonds additionnels provenant du casino au cas où nous devrions convertir notre tandem à un e-tandem.

  4. Gang Bao Avatar
    Gang Bao

    Gilles, seems it was not easy to cross over from a fallen down big tree during your cycle tour in Beaumont-en-Veron 😀😀😀

    Very enjoyable to read your journey!

    Thanks!

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Hi Gang – We are not sure what brought down the tree but it was fairly easy to cycle around it. We took a photo as it was unusual to see a tree across the bicycle path.

  5. Guang Avatar
    Guang

    Nice B&B experience. Looks like the scenery is getting better and better. Enjoy!

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Hi Guang – It truly was a nice B&B experience. Although we enjoy the different scenery, we really like to cycle along shaded cycling path – not so much a top of hills of winery fields.

  6. Ron H Avatar
    Ron H

    Great photography and excellent commentary as always. Those crepes look huge and yummy. Seems like you are meeting nice people throughout your travels. Wishing you fewer headwinds.

    1. gilles Avatar
      gilles

      Hey Ron – May be you can help resolve one of our on-going debate regarding our photo taking skills. Naturally Jenny believes she is the best photographer while I believe I’m the better model. Clearly, Jenny is a fan of crêpes (or more accurately galettes). We find folks in France very friendly, we spend our day saying “Bonjour” to everyone on the road. Jenny and I both wish for less headwinds.

      1. Ron H Avatar
        Ron H

        Hi Gilles – Sorry for the late reply, but was in N.S. celebrating my Mom’s 90th birthday. As far as photo taking skills, between you and Jenny the best photographer is ….connection dropped … sorry…

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